WSDA Blog

Date: Friday, October 4, 2024

Author: Samira Guirguis

Navigating the ebbs and flows of modern-day farming is daunting, but grants are proving to be essential engines for innovation, collaboration, and sustainability for mid-sized and smaller farms. 

A prime illustration of this dynamic can be found on Whidbey Island, where prairie land meets water and farming has deep generational roots. On a recent sunny day, staff from WSDA were hosted by Whidbey Island Grown Cooperative and toured farms and food businesses that have recently received WSDA Local Food System Infrastructure Grants. One standout example is Ebey Road Farm, which has been in the same family for six generations. Originally established as a turkey farm in the 1930s, it has evolved over the years, shifting from a large dairy operation to producing alfalfa, grass, and grain for livestock feed, and now includes grain production and flour milling for artisan bakeries and a pizzeria.

With prevailing trends in the last half century pushing farms and food businesses towards consolidation, reinvestment in locally scaled infrastructure is often needed to get products into local markets and in front of local consumers. These grant funded investments allow farmers to develop new products, markets and revenue streams without jeopardizing their core business.

Grant support: a catalyst for change

Receiving A Local Food System Infrastructure grant from WSDA Regional Markets Program enabled this family-run farm to establish a milling operation, responding directly to a nearby bakery’s request for regionally sourced flour.

Karen Bishop, co-owner of Ebey Road Farm, says that her business was once very profitable selling diary products to distributors in Seattle. "However, our partners became reluctant to continue making the ferry trips to pick up our milk. Faced with rising shipping costs, we had no choice but to stop production and shift our focus.”  

Pointing at a red barn, she notes, "This used to be a calving pen for the dairy, and now it’s our new milling operation, thanks to the WSDA infrastructure grant." 

Danielle Bishop, daughter-in-law of Karen said the grant helped them improve their mill in two key areas: infrastructure and equipment. "We installed drywall to enhance climate control, making it easier to store grain properly. Additionally, we invested in essential tools," Danielle said.

This included scales for precise measurements, a high-powered magnet to eliminate metal contaminants, an auger for better grain movement, and a grain cleaner to enhance product quality. Overall, these upgrades have allowed them to focus on food safety and provide a better product to their customers.

Walking through the farm, remnants of the dairy operation are still visible. The Bishops are reimagining these vacant buildings, exploring how to revitalize the old spaces to enhance the farm’s sustainability. “We’re experiencing some challenges out here. Agriculture is struggling; many farms are shifting toward hobby operations and agritourism,” said Clark Bishop, Karen’s son.

“The biggest hurdle for any local farm is the capital and startup costs. If we want regional agriculture to survive, we need to focus on supporting those initial investments, rather than just the end product. It takes so much money to reach the point of a sustainable operation.” 

To tackle this, the Bishops teamed up with local favorites like Goldies, a beloved pizzeria on the island. “When you enjoy a slice at Goldies, you’re tasting our farm’s 100% heirloom Russian Red wheat,” Clark said.

They also partner with Little Red Hen Bakery, renowned for its artisanal breads. Together, they’re working to create a vibrant circular economy, where local farms and businesses uplift one another. A renaissance in the Whidbey Island local restaurant scene was recently profiled in the Seattle Times.

The Bishops see community connections as essential for survival. Building closer ties with local consumers helps minimize shipping expenses, but it also requires capital to adapt their operations to meet the needs and interests of consumers. While their flour venture won't fully sustain the farm, it’s a significant step toward diversifying their revenue streams.

Danielle Bishop expressed, “A rewarding aspect of working with the bakery is that they provide all the school bread here in Coupeville. At the end of the day, it feels great to know that if I milled 200 pounds of whole wheat flour, that flour goes directly to our local school system just around the corner.” The Coupeville School District is able to spend extra money on local products like the flour, thanks to a WSDA Farm to School Purchasing Grant.

The power of local partnerships

Just 30 miles away, Glendale Shepherd, Erik Swanson’s family farm, has been passed down for three generations. Specializing in dairy sheep, it fills a unique niche in the Washington marketplace. They produce a range of products, including sheep’s milk cheese, yogurt, and lamb meat that is sold at farmers markets across the PNW.

One of his essential partnerships is with the Bishops, who supply high-quality alfalfa hay for the sheep. “If we had to buy unknown hay from Eastern Washington, we’d might have to buy lower quality feed at a higher price,” Swanson explains. Collaborating with local producers not only ensures quality feed but also reduces transportation costs and environmental impact. Moreover, the success of one farm directly influences others; if challenges arise for the Bishops’ farm, the repercussions are felt throughout the community.
 

The role of grants

Grants serve smaller farms like Swanson’s by enabling timely investments in essential infrastructure. Erik was awarded a WSDA Local Food System Infrastructure Grant to purchase a road-worthy trailer for transporting his sheep to processing facilities after the local mobile slaughter unit ceased operations due to staffing shortages. “Without the grant, I wouldn’t have been able to process my animals in a timely manner,” he says. The lamb meat accounts for roughly 20 percent of their revenue stream. 
 

The ripple effect of local food systems

The collaboration between the Swansons’ farm and the Bishops’ alfalfa hay production exemplifies how local food systems thrive on interconnectedness. When farms support one another, they create a network that benefits the entire community, ensuring access to necessary resources without relying on distant suppliers.

Moreover, Erik notes the community’s growing appreciation for locally sourced, nutritious food. “People are realizing the value of knowing their farmers and where their food comes from,” he emphasizes. This shift not only helps local farms survive but also fosters a healthier food culture.

Broader support

"Investing in local farm partnerships strengthens community economies by keeping money and expertise circulating within Washington," says Galen Van Horn, WSDA Local Food Supply Chain Specialist. He acknowledges the unique challenges faced by small farms and food businesses, stating, "We’ve worked hard to simplify the grant application process and introduce more flexibility, making it accessible for farmers who may be applying for a grant for the first time." He adds, "Washington boasts bountiful ecosystems and exceptional soil—among the best in the world. It's inspiring to see consumers enjoying such diverse local foods and to witness successful businesses flourishing alongside them."

As the sun sets over the fields of Whidbey Island, one thing is clear: the will of its farmers to remain rooted in the communities where they grow, forge strong connections to neighboring producers, and provide fresh local food to their neighbors in the Pacific Northwest. Through this time-tested recipe, the community on Whidbey Island is strengthening its commitment to health, economic vitality, and, of course, delicious food.